Certain tools, including lenses, are often intended to be used in specific ways. However, by working in an unintended manner, you can create something unique and unexpected.
Working as Intended
For example, there are certain lenses which just innately work well for certain things. From my own kit of lenses, I usually lean on my 85mm for portraits. This is because it is wide enough and long enough to work on location, and whether on location or in studio, it offers a type of image which shows off the subject as “true to life.” Alternatively, if I am wanting to get a similar effect but am in a tighter space or want to show more of the subject, I’ll pull out my 50mm lens.
As one final example, neither of these really work if I want to shoot close-up beauty work which shows off all the beautiful skin textures of the subject.
My point is: certain lenses are just better for certain jobs. I wouldn’t eat spaghetti with a spoon, and I wouldn’t eat soup with a fork. I could, but it would just be making things harder for myself. But the thing is, photography isn’t eating food. As a creative exercise, knowing the specifics of a lens and how to use it is great. But the other side of this example is that you can also break these “rules” to find images which provide a different perspective or point of view.
Distortion
All lenses distort. An image is just that: a facsimile or copy of the real world. The key factor is knowing how a specific lens distorts and to what degree.
Certain lenses, as mentioned, work well for certain things. Most short lenses, such as the Laowa 12mm f/2.8 ZERO-D, tend to distort images so they become more and more “fish-eyed.” The center of the images bulges larger and the edges become increasingly compressed. As an example, Tim Walker recently used a fish-eye lens to great effect to photograph musician Harry Styles.
The 12mm Laowa, by contrast, is a rectilinear lens. Instead of distorting straight lines to curve and bend, it keeps everything linear. There is distortion still. The center of the image seems smaller and further away, and the edges stretch out as if falling out of the frame.
To quote the makers themselves:
…this is an ideal lens for a variety types of photography. From landscape, architecture, interior, travel to the most important, astrophotography.
Breaking the Rules
To use this lens for portraits seems so wrong. As with anything, knowing what a lens does is an important first step.
For this shoot, I worked on location in a rented studio set up to look like a Parisian parlor. There were elaborate tapestries and amazing furniture. But the space was tiny. Shorter lenses are usually fish-eyed, and so, there is a trope that if they are shot in a small space, we feel as if the space is actually small. By working with a rectilinear lens, I was able to show a lot more of the location but break the trope that most fisheye lenses offer.
Secondly, I didn’t fight what the lens does. I know it stretches out the edges of the frame. I used this to creative effect and put body parts towards the edges to intentionally stretch them out.
For a standing model, this makes them look even taller. And for those sitting or in other poses, it stretches out and elongates limbs to offer an image which is more eye-catching than if things were more correctly proportioned.
These few images are part of a larger editorial of images, and so, I didn’t just use this one lens to photograph everything. But by interspersing images on this lens with some of the other lenses in my kit, I was able to create a body of images which offer this otherworldly, dreamlike story, which was my intention all along.
We’re getting a great gift in our skies this holiday season. Three bright planets decorate our evening skies; Saturn, Jupiter and Mars. We also have some nice celestial conjunctions or what I call celestial huggings between the moon and planets.
Every month there are at least one or two conjunctions or celestial huggings. These frequent conjunctions happen because of the ecliptic, the superhighway of the planets in our skies. Planets are wanderers, moving among the stars from night to night and year to year. In fact, the word “planet” has a Greek origin that roughly evolved from what they called “wandering stars.” Back then, no one really knew the nature of the planets except that they appeared to roam among the fixed stars in the celestial dome. Early civilizations observed that the moon and the wanderers, or planets, didn’t move randomly among the fixed stars. Instead, they followed about the same path, mainly migrating to the east and at times moving backward, or retrograde, in a westward direction. This path is called the ecliptic because it’s along the same line where eclipses of the sun and moon occur.
All of the planets take pretty much the same ecliptic path among the stars because they, along with our Earth, all orbit the sun in nearly the same geometric plane. They also move along the ecliptic at different speeds. The planets close to the sun, Venus and Mercury, are in the fast lane. Their paths around the sun are shorter and travel faster because the sun has a stronger gravitational pull on them. So they zip around the sun compared with outer planets like Uranus and Neptune, which take their sweet time completing their longer ecliptic circuit. Consider the ecliptic the long and winding road in the stars. Also, along and on either side of the ecliptic are 13 constellations referred to as zodiac constellations. On any given night or day, a planet or our moon will be in one of these constellations as they travel down the ecliptic highway.
The planets aren’t the only wanderers in the night sky. Human-made satellites rip across the sky in just about all directions. Hundreds of them have been launched into space in the last 70 years. Many of them are still functioning, fulfilling their various missions and tasks, but there’s also a lot of junk up there like dead satellites and spent rocket stages. At my star-watching programs, I’ll inevitably have someone call out, “Hey, look at the satellite up there!”
The best times to spot satellites are early morning and early evening. While the sun has gone down from our point of view on Earth, it’s still shining high up in space where the satellites are. The light we see when we observe satellites is sunlight bouncing off their reflective surfaces.
Some satellites are brighter than others. The absolute king of the satellites is the International Space Station. At first glance it resembles a high-flying jet airliner. There are also the new Elon Musk Starlink communication satellites. Hundreds are already in use, and hundreds more are planned. The only problem is that with so many satellites, astronomical observations from Earth could really get messed up. I know it affects my astrophotography. Hopefully, solutions can be worked out so this won’t become a huge problem.
There are a lot of good websites and apps for helping you spot and identify satellites, and I think the best one is Heavens Above at www.heavens-above.com. Not only will it help you with satellites, but it can also help locate comets, asteroids, and more! Once you get on the site, configure it to your location with the database and you’re good to go.
Enjoy all the wanderers, natural and human-made!
Celestial Happening this week: The winter solstice is this Wednesday afternoon, and it’s the astronomical first day of winter and the shortest day of the year. From here on, days get longer, and the sun climbs higher and higher in the heavens!
The Geminids meteor shower, which peaks around mid-December each year, is widely recognised as one of the best and most constant annual meteor showers. According to NASA, it is a unique astronomical phenomena that may be enjoyed during the night and predawn hours.
The Geminids Meteor Shower, expected to generate 120 meteors per hour and be active from November 19 to December 24, 2022, will peak on December 14th.
Many individuals shared photographs and videos of celestial occurrences on social media. People from throughout the world uploaded pictures and films of streaks of light seen in the night sky, enthralling the stargazers. Here are some of the greatest Geminids meteor shower photographs obtained by Twitter users.
Geminids, according to NASA, move at 78,000 mph. These meteors are 1000 times quicker than a cheetah, 250 times faster than the world’s fastest automobile, and 40 times faster than a speeding bullet. The meteor shower was seen from both Hyderabad and Delhi.
Our solar system is still littered with debris, and the Geminids meteor shower is made up of fragments of rock comets that pass close to Earth once a year. The Geminids are made up of debris from the asteroid 3200 Phaethon.
The name “Geminids” refers to stars that appear to radiate from the constellation Gemini. According to Earthsky, the meteor shower will be best visible in the northern hemisphere, although individuals in the southern hemisphere will also be able to view some of the meteors. Astronomers predict that at the peak of the meteor showers, around 150 Geminids will be seen per hour.
The Geminids get their name from the constellation Gemini, which looks to be their ancestor. While some scientists think it is an asteroid due to its orbit and similarities to the main-belt asteroid Pallas, others believe it is an extinct comet based on studies that show a little amount of debris exiting Phaethon’s surface, as detailed in a statement by NASA.
FAQ
When were Geminids discovered?
1983 was the time when Germinids were discovered.
Which time of the year Germinids are seen?
Geminids are mostly seen in the November – December of the year.
Disclaimer Statement: This content is authored by an external agency. The views expressed here are that of the respective authors/ entities and do not represent the views of Economic Times (ET). ET does not guarantee, vouch for or endorse any of its contents nor is responsible for them in any manner whatsoever. Please take all steps necessary to ascertain that any information and content provided is correct, updated, and verified. ET hereby disclaims any and all warranties, express or implied, relating to the report and any content therein.
When photographer Josh Defibaugh climbed to the top of Vermont’s Mount Mansfield, he was hoping for a successful night of photography. But he never could have imagined the incredible image he was about to take. Defibaugh was looking to capture the Milky Way, but his plans were upended by the presence of a SpaceX rocket.
At the time, Defibaugh was unaware that a rocket by the Elon Musk-run company had recently been launched. But, after carefully composing his shot, he suddenly saw a bright light shoot across his viewfinder.
“As the galaxy was on my mind, I saw this bright glow in the sky and thought, very briefly, that it was aliens,” Defibaugh tells My Modern Met. “And I was really excited to photograph it. But that thought wore off pretty quickly as I realized it was just another SpaceX rocket.”
Though he hadn’t originally planned on sharing the photo, once he did, the image took on a life of its own. Personally, Defibaugh has mixed feelings about the photo.
“I hope people realize that the degradation of the night sky with satellites and light pollution is an ongoing problem. The Earth is getting anywhere from 2-6% brighter each year and Elon Musk has stated he plans to launch hundreds, if not thousands, of SpaceX rockets in the coming years. The effects of so many satellites in the night sky may not be apparent now, but they will be soon, not just for astrophotographers but for any looking up to the sky.”
SpaceX has steadily increased its number of launches each year. At the time of writing, there have been 54 launches in 2022, with 10 more scheduled before the end of the year. And if SpaceX hits its goal in 2023, it will hit 100 launches in a calendar year. In the past, the company has experimented with a special coating to darken its satellites, but with so many bodies in the sky, experts agree that light pollution will increase.
So while Defibaugh’s image may look cool, it’s also a reminder that these rockets can and will transform the night sky.
If you want to see more of Defibaugh’s astrophotography, sans rocket, as well as his other creative projects you can follow his work on Instagram.
Josh Defibaugh: Website | Instagram
My Modern Met granted permission to feature photos by Josh Defibaugh.
Related Articles:
Incredible Video Reveals the Inner Workings of Rockets When They Launch
Breathtaking 6K Time-Lapse Captures SpaceX Rocket Launch Over California
Photographer’s Incredible Shot of the SpaceX Falcon Heavy Launch Goes Viral
Photographer Captures Perfectly Timed Image of SpaceX Rocket Traveling in Front of the Full Moon
If you’re getting started in astrophotography, I am here to save you some time and frustration by learning from the mistakes of myself and others.
Whether you’re looking into a full-blown deep-sky camera and telescope setup, or just getting started with a DSLR and tripod, I think this article will come in handy.
The following advice and tips were compiled by myself and the hundreds of responses I received when I asked the AstroBackyard community: “What’s the most important piece of advice you’d like to give to beginners?”
So get ready, because the advice I have may surprise you.
1) Astrophotography is more than deep-sky imaging
You need to choose an area of interest. I know you want to do it all. Planets, meteor shower time-lapses, galaxies, nightscapes, but you should narrow down your interests to focus on the equipment and techniques that are most important for your goals.
To me, astrophotography usually means deep-sky images of galaxies and nebulae. To others, it’s a nightscape of the winter constellations rising above a snow-covered mountain.
Astrophotography is a close-up of the surface of Mars, a wide-angle photo of the Milky Way, and everything in between. This is why it is difficult to provide broad astrophotography tips that cover all aspects of the hobby.
You need to decide which area of the hobby interests you most because the necessary equipment varies wildly depending on the one you choose. I generally stick to tracked, long-exposure images through a telescope, but for others, it’s a wide-angle lens and a hike through the mountains.
A pet peeve of mine is when people generalize “astrophotography” into one aspect, and make ‘rules’ that confuse beginners. Taking a photo of the moon with your phone through a manual Dobsonian telescope is still astrophotography, just in its simplest form.
So pick an area of interest early on and don’t try to do it all. For me, that’s deep-sky imaging through a telescope in the backyard because it’s the most practical way for me to enjoy the hobby. For you, a lighter travel-friendly system may make more sense.
2) Become obsessed with your progress
If you’re like me, all it takes to stay motivated is to make progress toward your goal. It’s a simple concept, but it’s difficult to sustain at times. They can be very small steps, but always forward, not back.
The reason I say this is that you need to appreciate your own personal progress (not someone else’s) to stay excited about astrophotography. The game of astrophotography is best enjoyed on the court, not the sidelines. Only you will truly know the meaning and pride behind each photo.
My progress on the Orion Nebula from 2010 to 2021
Will the average Joe see your image and say “that’s unbelievable”? Lots will, but others may say “I’ve seen better”, or “you could have just found a better picture online”. The difference is, this image was captured by you, the person who didn’t even know how to use a telescope just a few months ago.
You spent the time perfecting your craft to capture and share an image of an object you chose. You watched the image get better and better over time as you patiently gathered light on it.
Comparing your latest version of a deep-sky target with your previous attempt is a real eye-opener, and you should be very proud of the progress you’ve made. Astrophotography is not for the dabblers. It takes grit to get to the finish line.
3) If it were easy, everyone would do it
Astrophotography, in all aspects, is hard. Expect to fail several times and to get frustrated and discouraged. This is not a hobby you walk into and get immediate results. If that’s the game you’re playing, you will need to adjust your expectations accordingly.
Celebrate any amount of progress, because it truly is an amazing feat. You balanced your rig, you focused your camera. Maybe you set everything up and didn’t get a single picture but you will next time because you learned a pivotal step of the process through the experience that you now know forever.
Setting up my telescope on a cold winter night.
The steep learning curve of astrophotography is the barrier to entry, and why I respect anyone that has chosen to take the challenge on. We are a different breed, and that’s why what we do is extraordinary. At some point, you may even run into people that claim your images are fake, but I believe it is because they just don’t understand the process.
4) Take online advice with a grain of salt
There are some amazing resources out there to learn astrophotography on your own. YouTube, Facebook Groups, Reddit, and Forums. The problem is, there is a lot of conflicting advice, and the people that like to hang out there can be a little opinionated.
My wife Ashley recently got started in astrophotography, and I cringe at the idea of her posting a question in a forum about her Sky-Watcher mount and someone saying “you got the belt mod done right? You re-greased the worm gear? Don’t even bother using it before you do that or your guiding will be terrible. Throw out all of your subs that aren’t 0.3 arc seconds per pixel or less.”
That’s the kind of information that scares people away from our hobby for good. The scary part is, many people read the hive-mind expert advice, and start telling others about it as if it were true. I’ve even read outrageous stories about me written by a stranger. The internet can be a strange place.
So like I said, take everything with a grain of salt and understand that the advice or opinions there aren’t always true. Instead, reach out to an individual astrophotographer who’s around your skill level (or better yet, just ahead of you) and kick ideas off of them.
Unlike the faceless keyboard warriors, they do not have the incentive of manufacturing drama for attention or boast about their extensive knowledge. There’s a good chance you will make some lifetime friends through these authentic connections, too.
If you can’t find a mentor yet, try replicating the exact process you have watched on YouTube. Look at the results they are achieving, so you have a realistic expectation of what you could potentially accomplish.
5) Your mount is really important, get a good one
Beginners like to focus on the camera and telescope used for an astrophoto they see shared online. “What telescope did you use” is the most common question I get when newcomers see my photos on Twitter and Instagram.
The telescope is essential, yes, but it’s the equatorial tracking mount that makes it all possible. Whether it’s a star tracker or a full-blown goto system, you can make your life easier by choosing one that’s been proven to be reliable.
Sky-Watcher EQ6-R Pro
The basics like polar alignment and balance may seem obvious, but I still see beginners getting this wrong early on and blaming their equipment. Take the time to understand how your tracking mount works and its limitations.
This will be your platform for almost every type of astrophotography you do. Once you are comfortable with consistently setting it up properly and polar aligning it, you are free to experiment with new camera settings, filters, and techniques.
Aim for a motorized equatorial mount (not an alt-az), that has a listed maximum payload capacity that is well over the weight of your imaging gear. If that’s only 11 pounds, no problem, there are still plenty of configuration possibilities on there.
Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi Mount
I really like the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi, the EQ6-R Pro, and most recently, the super portable ZWO AM5. Look at what others are using, and the imaging system they have riding on top. If they consistently pump out great images with it, that’s a pretty good sign.
6) Don’t start with a long focal length telescope!
A long focal length (anything over 1000mm) means a higher native magnification. So, when you attach a camera, this is the field of view you will get.
If you are used to a camera lens, 300mm is considered a long telephoto lens, but in the telescope world, this is taken to the extreme. A popular telescope package choice for astrophotographers starting out is a Celestron CGEM II 800 at over 2000mm.
Don’t get me wrong, this is a great telescope package, but I believe it will make that first tracked, long-exposure image of a nebula or galaxy harder to achieve.
A high-magnification SCT is less forgiving than a wide-field refractor.
But high magnification is good, right? We want to see and photograph small galaxies and the planets right up close, don’t we? Well, we do, but the learning curve goes way up when you are pointing at a tiny area of the sky.
It makes alignment, finding objects, and accurate tracking more difficult simply because it literarily magnifies any tiny error you’ve made along the way. Instead, start wide, to give yourself a break.
A compact refractor in the 400mm range is ideal, it will make everything easier. No matter which camera you use, you should now be able to find and focus on the brightest stars, and begin your first tracked, long exposure image.
The William Optics RedCat 51 is a solid choice for beginners and shoots at a beginner-friendly focal length of 250mm. This telescope is also compact and lightweight enough to be used with a star tracker mount.
The William Optics RedCat 51. 250mm at F/4.9.
Once you have mastered the process with your wide-field setup, increasing focal length is a lot more approachable.
7) Get ready for image processing
If you are already a daytime photographer and know your way around Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom, great. But even then, you will have to make a massive shift in the way you edit photos.
The process of creating an astro-image is more than just creative edits to enhance color and clarity. It’s image stacking, it’s hours of integration, calibration frames, and learning the art of pre-processing.
Performing a curve stretch in Adobe Photoshop
I know that a lot of beginners have very little experience with image editing going in, and it’s going to require a lot of time and energy to get up to speed. Just like the image acquisition portion, this experience will be a lot more enjoyable with realistic expectations.
I personally love the image processing side of things, and I think eventually beginners will too. There is something about spending a few hours really digging into your data and bringing it out the hidden beauty that is both satisfying and rewarding.
There are many great tutorials here on YouTube, no matter which software you are using. I’ve created a beginner-friendly Image Processing Guide that aims to help you save a lot of time and frustration.
Just remember that you will need to make a choice in terms of the software you use, and stick with it. I recommend starting with Adobe Photoshop, and gradually applying a few techniques from PixInsight over time. That’s what I did.
8) Weather is cruel, and you will obsess over it
I check 3-4 weather apps multiple times per day. I’ve been doing this for 10 years, and it is not healthy.
Clear Outside, the Clear Sky Chart, Astrospheric: they’re all pretty good. But unless you live in the desert, and/or shoot remotely, you are going to experience lots of cloudy nights. They often are timed out exactly when a new piece of gear arrives, or when you are particularly excited to start or continue a new project.
It is probably the most devastatingly helpless part of astrophotography, and it will hurt. Even worse, is when a clear night is coming up, and you have ‘real life’ plans you can’t get out of. Work nights, birthday parties, sporting events, etc. These will all be clear nights.
Out of all the abuse we take as an astrophotographer, I think the weather is probably the worst. However, it gets a little easier to stomach when you commit to astrophotography as a lifelong journey.
So you missed Orion this winter, he will be back next year, I can promise you that. And you’ll be ready.
9) It’s expensive – there is no way around it
Photography in general is expensive but astrophotography takes it one step further. Telescopes can be expensive, even if you have a budget in mind, you will go over it. And over, and over again.
As a full-time astrophotographer, it’s a little easier to justify expenses now. But when I started, I purchased my telescope mount on the old credit card and said “If I don’t get this to work, I’m out almost a grand.” It’s a nice incentive to get it to work.
Now, I don’t want to scare you away if your budget is limited, and you want to get in the game. Used gear, smaller setups, older cameras – you can do so much with this type of equipment. And I bet it will be a lot more rewarding than someone who buys their way to the top.
If you’re looking for a number, I am going to say that it will be tough to build a deep-sky astrophotography rig for under $2000. And this will be a smaller-scale system for wide-field targets. But, if you are thrifty and hungry, I bet you could get in for even less.
Astrophotography with a camera lens and star tracker
10) Social media sharing joys and letdowns…
Now, I don’t know what your plans are for your images when they are done, but chances are you want someone to see them. You can print them out to hang on your wall, you can post them on your website, or you can share them on social media and watch the likes come rolling in, right? Well, sometimes.
The social media landscape has changed over the last few years and astrophotographers are using “feed the algorithm’ tactics to get more eyeballs on their work. This is all cool with me, but just remember that hitting an arbitrary number of likes on your image has nothing to do with how good it is. Yeah, it feels good when others appreciate your work, but if that’s what you need to enjoy the hobby, it’s not going to work.
Follow astrophotographers that have a particular style you enjoy for inspiration, and don’t get too hung up on likes and views. It sounds obvious, but it can really get in your head, and it’s not why you got started.
I have recently gotten into printing large, high-resolution astrophotos to display in my home, and eventually offer for sale. The process has been refreshingly different than how I dress up an image to share on a phone screen.
11) Get out there and shoot
I can’t believe I have to say this one, but Alan Dyer is right – spend less time watching YouTube videos (wait a minute), and just get outside and practice.
Don’t try to over-prepare yourself with too much information, and try to nail your first attempt – it just won’t happen. When you’re out there in the moment, you’d be surprised at how different things become and what sticks and what doesn’t.
If your expectations are set to just have a night of experimentation and learning, you will enjoy every minute of it. This is exactly the way I got hooked on astrophotography, through trial and error and having fun experimenting with camera settings in my backyard.
I have found that a lot of the ‘experts’ in the astrophotography Facebook groups and forums take very few (if any) actual photos.
You can have all the answers but until you are executing what you’ve learned, you really haven’t even started.
12) Dark skies make a big difference
If you’ve only ever shot from a light-polluted city, you may be surprised at just how much of a difference dark skies make. It’s not just that the quality and detail of your images will be better, but the entire process seems to become easier and more enjoyable.
You are no longer fighting against the light dome of a washed-out sky, and you can actually focus on collecting quality data (and as much of it as possible).
Milky Way under Bortle 2 skies at the Cherry Springs Star Party
You can see more stars and even deep-sky objects in the sky. The images you capture there will be easier to process, and you will need less overall integration time to create an amazing image.
Any chance you get to set up your camera and telescope under dark skies, take it!
I like to go on an astro-adventure on new moon weekends. I look for Airbnb’s in dark sky locations using a light pollution map, and book a last-minute trip once I am certain it will be clear.
Make those dark-sky trips count, and go after the fainter targets while you’re there.
Use a light pollution map to decide where your next dark-sky astrophotography trip will take place. lightpollutionmap.info
13) Don’t be afraid of the dark…
This one sounds like a joke, but it’s seriously something to consider if you’re new to the hobby.
If you aren’t used to spending a night outside alone in the dark (most of us aren’t, right?), it can be a little freaky out there. Seriously, if you’ve set up at the dark-sky spot away from home and it’s truly dark (which is exactly what you want), you will hear every stick break, every rustle in the bushes, and question why every car that drives by is out so late.
You need to be in the right mindset to stick it out, or you’ll completely freak out and pack up. A word to the wise here, a small stereo playing some classic rock can really help ease the tension. That’s my routine, anyway. And if I’m at home, my pal Rudy helps keep me company.
14) Join your local astronomy club
I know, I know, you’re a lone wolf who likes to figure things out on your own. You’re resourceful and you can learn anything online. That’s me too, I hear you.
But you will save a year’s worth of struggle by hanging around the astrophotographers at your local astronomy club. Trust me, there will be a die-hard pack of them in the club.
I’m talking in-person hangouts with a group of people that geek out just as hard about space as you do. One-on-one advice based on the gear you currently own, from people that have been there.
This is precisely how I managed to escape the complete the incredible, rare accomplishment of taking my first tracked, guided long exposure image through a telescope.
Sometimes you need a responsive guide or mentor to help you through the key steps, and this is something that I, through the screen on YouTube or this website, cannot do for you.
Final Thoughts
Astrophotography is a hobby you can enjoy for a lifetime. Don’t rush the early stages because you are impatient for a result. Some of my favorite memories involving this hobby are from the summer I got started, and the early victories I achieved.
Photographing the night sky in any form is a challenge, and it’s something most people will never get to experience. Enjoy the process – the crushing lows, the short-lived highs, the pictures that leave you speechless, and the ones that make you want to sell your ‘scope.
It’s the journey to the image that makes it fun. Life is too short to spend on the sidelines, watching and critiquing others. Get out there. Capture. Create. Inspire. This is where the true joy of astrophotography lies, trust me.
A photograph of the Big Dipper taken by an Indian youth, Arya Anthony, has won honourable mention in the 2022 IAU OAE Astrophotography Contest in the category of Still Images of Celestial Patterns.
The contest had attracted entries from 31 countries and Arya was the only Indian whose entry was selected for the honour. It was conducted by the Office for Astronomy and Education (OAE) under the International Astronomical Union (IAU).
The IAU has 12,000 active members in more than 100 countries with a mission to promote Astronomy in all aspects including research, communication, education and development through OAE centres.
Arya, 20, who hails from Vadodara in Gujarat, is a third year student of mechanical engieering at the Manipal Institute of Technology, Udupi in Karnataka.
“As I have been interested in astronomy since childhood and the night sky is my fascination, I had participated in the Astrophotography contest conducted by OAE,” he said.
The photograph, taken in Udupi, Karnataka in May 2021, shows the seven brightest stars in the constellation Ursa Major.
The selected photos from the contest will be available as educational resources with astronomical topics to astronomers globally on the OAE website.
On Friday (Dec. 16), the moon will enter its last quarter phase for the final time in 2022 with the lunar disk exactly half-illuminated.
As seen from New York City, 2022’s final last quarter moon will rise seven degrees above the horizon to the east at around 12:21 a.m. EST (0521 GMT), according to In the Sky (opens in new tab). It will reach its highest point in the sky, 55 degrees above the southern horizon at around 6:00 a.m. EST (1100 GMT) before disappearing in the light of dawn less than an hour later around 6:52 a.m. EST (1152 GMT).
This won’t be the last time the moon will appear half-illuminated by the sun during 2022. The lunar face will be half-lit again during the final first quarter moon of the year which happens on Dec. 30.
Related: Full moon calendar 2022: When to see the next full moon
These phases of the moon get their name not from the proportion of the moon illuminated, but by the time at which they occur during the 29.5-day lunar cycle.
The first quarter moon falls a quarter of the way through this cycle exactly halfway between the completely dark new moon, the beginning of the lunar cycle and the completely illuminated full moon, which marks the halfway point of the lunar cycle.
The last quarter moon, on the other hand, happens when the lunar cycle is three-quarters of the way through, falling between the full moon and the next new moon, and thus the start of the next lunar cycle.
Between the full moon and the last quarter moon, the illuminated side of the moon has been receding, or ‘waning’ as astronomers describe it, and this will continue until the new moon. In addition to this, the moon has been rising later and later each day and becoming visible for progressively less time before sunrise. Its peak height in the sky also gets progressively lower each night.
At the last quarter, the moon rises in the middle of the night. Its peak height occurs around dawn before it sets around midday. This culminates by the time of the next new moon, which occurs on Dec. 23, when the moon will rise with the sun and set at sunset, making it visible only during the day.
This situation is then reversed leading to the next full moon, January’s full Wolf Moon, which occurs on Jan 6. The moon will rise earlier and earlier each night, its illuminated face will grow, described as ‘waxing.’
By the time of the first quarter, the times at which the moon rises and sets during the final quarter phase will have reversed. The first quarter moon rises at lunchtime and sets around midnight.
As it progresses to the Wolf Moon, the moon will be visible for more of the night and by the time the first full moon of 2023 arrives on Jan. 6, our celestial companion will be visible for most of the night.
The moon is a great target for trying your hand at lunar photography or skywatching. Whether you’re new to skywatching or have been it at for years, be sure not to miss our guides for the best binoculars and the best telescopes to view the final last quarter moon of 2022 and other sky sites. For capturing the best lunar images you can, we have a guide on how to photograph the moon as well as recommendations for the best cameras for astrophotography and best lenses for astrophotography.
Editor’s Note:If you get a good photo of the last quarter moon and would like to share it with Space.com’s readers, send your photo(s), comments, and your name and location to [email protected].
Follow us on Twitter @Spacedotcom (opens in new tab) or on Facebook (opens in new tab).
The Astronomical Society of Northern New England (ASNNE) will hold its next monthly meeting on Friday, Jan. 6 at 7:3 p.m. at The New School, 38 York St. in Kennebunk. The Business Meeting, also open to the public, commences at 7 p.m.
The January meeting agenda includes: Bernie Reim’s “What’s Up for the Month” and the ever popular “Astro Shorts” where attendees and members share questions, activities, news and observations. Our Astro Shorts meetings always give way to lively and informative discussions!
All those interested in astronomy are welcome; from stargazers and hobbyists, to serious observers, astrophotographers, and those interested in astronomical theory. The general public is also most cordially invited and welcome.
ASNNE also hosts Star Parties at club’s Talmage Observatory at Starfield on Route 35 in West Kennebunk.
To see any last-minute changes to the meeting, due to weather, or other circumstances, or for more information, visit us at www.ASNNE.org.
« Previous
Maine Bureau of Highway Safety reminds drivers: Drive sober or get pulled over
Here we’ve rounded up the best cameras for astrophotography that we think will help you capture your best astro images. Many are even at a discount price in the lead-up to the holiday season.
The bonus of having one of the best cameras for astrophotography is that they are typically versatile cameras that perform exceptionally for daytime shooting too. This negates the need to spend on additional equipment, something we all want to avoid with the ongoing rise in the cost of living.
Remember, it’s not all about the camera. Lenses are just as (if not more) important. That’s why we’ve laid out the best lenses for astrophotography too. We’ve also put together a guide for the best camera accessories for astrophotography and the best light pollution filters for astrophotography, especially important if you’re shooting in an area prone to skyglow.
DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have long been known for their night sky shooting prowess. Low image noise, high ISO capabilities, and flexibility for regular daytime shooting make them ideal devices for many users. However, there are also astro-specific cameras that traditional photographers often overlook. These specialized devices mount to telescopes for incredibly clear astrophotographs that can easily surpass DSLR or mirrorless cameras, although they are unsuitable for conventional photography.
Astrophotographers will need to pay close attention to the performance of each system’s noise handling, as this is a common problem for low-light and night-time photographers. Check how well the camera blocks infrared light, as this is the only way to view cosmic objects. Removing the IR filter can be done by a specialist post-purchase. Dimensions and weight are also essential factors for portability and durability, chances are you’ll be traveling to find a suitable dark sky.
Despite the common misconception, expensive doesn’t necessarily mean best (for your purpose). Some cameras cost far less but give superior astro image quality than even the most expensive models. There does always tend to be a trade-off. That might be shooting flexibility or lens mount versatility. Of course, you won’t be able to capture the stars without a sturdy tripod, so check out our guide to the best tripods for astrophotography to prepare yourself with the best possible setup.
Today’s best cameras for astrophotography deal:
Why you can trust Space Our expert reviewers spend hours testing and comparing products and services so you can choose the best for you. Find out more about how we test.
The best cameras for astrophotography in 2022
A workhorse and detail-oriented powerhouse, this 45.4MP DSLR is possibly one of the best cameras for astro full stop
Specifications
Type: DSLR
Sensor: 45.4MP, Full-frame 35mm
Lens mount: F-mount
ISO range: 64-25600 (102400 expandable)
Viewfinder size/resolution: Optical, 0.75x mag
Video capability: 4K UHD 30FPS
Weight: 915g
Size: 146 x 124 x 78.5 mm
Memory card type: 1x SD/SDHC/SDXC and UHS-II, 1x XQD/CF Express
Reasons to buy
+
Huge stills resolution for extra detail
+
Native compatibility with F-mount lens range
+
Reliable and durable weather sealing
Reasons to avoid
–
Bigger and bulkier than mirrorless
–
Low ISO range
–
Optical viewfinder
The Nikon D850 DSLR was released almost five years ago but still keeps up with the young kids on the block, in many photography disciplines, including astro. The 45.7-megapixel image sensor on the D850 produces ultra-detailed stills photos while keeping image noise to a minimum. It even can shoot 4K UHD 30 frames per second video for those who want to make movies of the stars.
Partly due to when it was made, It is considerably heavier, bigger and bulkier than astro-specific cameras or its mirrorless competition. Still, thanks to its rugged construction and excellent weather sealing, it will last for many years, no matter what environment you choose to shoot in.
Like all DSLRs, it has an optical viewfinder, making it a little more challenging to compose and focus for night sky imaging, but the rear tilting touchscreen remedies this problem. It has two card slots for SD and XQD/CF Express cards to ensure it can record all that incredible detail at speed and for added peace of mind.
As seen on the flagship Nikon D5 (opens in new tab), the D850 utilizes full button illumination, making it simple to operate in the dark without needing a headlamp that may damage your night vision. This was one of the features we enjoyed most during our Nikon D850 review alongside its expandable ISO sensitivity range of 102400 — it practically sees in the dark. Although a very high ISO will drastically reduce image quality, it can useful just to help you compose your shot if nothing else.
(opens in new tab)
Stylish but capable, body mounted controls make for easy operation in the dark
Specifications
Type: Mirrorless
Sensor: 26.1 megapixel APS-C
Lens mount: X-mount
ISO range: 160-12800 (80-51200 expanded)
Viewfinder size/resolution: 0.5-inch, 3.69 million dots
Video capability: 4K
Weight: 607g
Size: 135 x 93 x 64 mm
Memory card type: UHS-I / UHS-II / Video Speed Class V90 *1
Reasons to buy
+
Multi-swivel screen
+
Wide ISO sensitivity range
+
Versatile for other photography types
Reasons to avoid
–
Only 26MP
–
Pricey
–
No battery charger, it needs plugging in
The X-T4 is Fujifilm’s flagship mirrorless camera and the most powerful X-series. It is an excellent option for astrophotography enthusiasts, as we discussed in our Fujifulm X-T4 review. The vari-angle screen makes composing shots much more comfortable than without, given the camera will be pointing at the sky.
The classic look of the camera makes it stylish, but the body-mounted dial controls make it easier to use in the dark if you can remember which dial does what. The 26.1MP APS-C sensor creates excellent image quality, and there are plenty of lenses available to fit this model to enhance them further.
The Fuji X-T4 uses the NP-W235 battery with a CIPA rating of around 500 shots per charge in an everyday performance mode. When we carried out our full review, we found this can be much higher when shooting in the daytime. However, when shooting the night sky, the long exposures needed sap the battery more, so expect slightly fewer.
This camera is a versatile option for photographers who regularly dabble in other styles of photography. It has a generous 6.5 stops of in-body image stabilization, excellent low-light performance, and a high-speed processing engine. That makes it ideal for action or sports photography. It is also a top choice when it comes to timelapse photography. Check out our best cameras for timelapse videos for alternative options for this style of capture.
A low light beast, this camera set a precedent as one of the best astro mirrorless cameras
Specifications
Type: Mirrorless
Sensor: 24.2MP, Full-frame 35mm
Lens mount: E-mount
ISO range: 50-51200 (204800 for stills)
Viewfinder size/resolution: 0.5-inch, 2.35 million dots
Video capability: 4K UHD 30fps
Weight: 650g
Size: 126.9mm x 95.6mm x 73.7mm
Memory card type: 1x SD/SDHC/SDXC (UHS-I/II compliant) 1x Multi slot for Memory
: Stick Duo/SD/SDHC/SDXC (UHS-I compliant)
Reasons to buy
+
Incredible low light video performance
+
Good battery life
+
93% AF point coverage
Reasons to avoid
–
Certainly a more expensive option
–
Low stills resolution compared to competition
–
New version now available
The Sony A7 III is a favorite among astrophotographers that like to shoot mirrorless and is one of the brightest stars of the astro camera world (pardon the pun). Though its electronic viewfinder isn’t as detailed as others we’ve listed, it still provides a beneficial exposure-ramped view to aid with composing astrophotographs. Low light autofocus detection, while not as sophisticated as some in this list, still performs well by working in -3 EV. In our Sony A7 III review, we were particularly impressed with the high dynamic range which allows you to recover amazing detail from the shadows.
Even when ramped up to a massive ISO 51200, this camera handles image noise well and produces excellent image results. For those not too worried about movie shooting (though it can capture 4K UHD at 30FPS), ISO can jump higher, expanding to an insane 204800 for stills photography.
Shooting for hours at night can drain the battery quickly, especially when you consider it has to run power both to the rear screen and the EVF. However, this camera is CIPA-rated well above average for a mirrorless of this type and can shoot 710 still shots via the rear LCD monitor. It is a touch more expensive than others in its class, but if you’re after a natural low light performer that is also versatile enough to excel in other photography styles, the A7 III might be the one for you.
Small but important improvements over its predecessor
Specifications
Type: Mirrorless
Sensor: BSI-CMOS 24.5MP
Lens mount: Z-mount
ISO range: 100-51200 (expanded 50-204800)
Video: 4K 60p
Weight without lens: 1.5lbs/675g
Memory card slots: 1x CFexpress/XQD, 1x UHS-II SD
Reasons to buy
+
Great for low-light shooting
+
Excellent weather sealing
Reasons to avoid
–
Not worth upgrading from the Z6
–
Lots of competition at a similar or lower price
Following the aforementioned Nikon Z6, it makes sense to talk about its successor, the Nikon Z6 II. As we discussed in our hands-on Nikon Z6 II review, there aren’t enough upgrades to warrant upgrading from one model to the other, and it’s not worth the extra cost if you’re only going to be shooting astro with it.
That said, suppose you’re upgrading from a beginner model, capturing video, and shooting other photography styles alongside astro. In that case, the Z6 II is worth considering if you can spare the extra dollars, as it is a little more refined.
Take note of everything the Z6 has, but add a second memory card slot for extra storage and peace of mind, a faster burst rate and autofocus, quicker image processing, and 60FPS at 4K video shooting.
Another inclusion astrophotographers will love is the better range of shutter speeds, allowing more control over those long exposure shots. The shutter speed limit is now 900 seconds (15 minutes).
Realistic but exceptionally clear images of the night sky, and a better option for astro than the Z7
Specifications
Type: Mirrorless
Sensor: 24.5MP, Full-frame 35mm
Lens mount: Z-mount
ISO range: 100-51200 (204800 expandable)
Viewfinder size/resolution: : 0.5-inch, 3.69 million dots
Video capability: 4K UHD 30fps
Weight: 705g
Size: 134 x 100.5 x 69.5 mm
Memory card type: 1x SD/SDHC/SDXC and UHS-II, 1x XQD/CF Express
Reasons to buy
+
Low image noise
+
Superb electronic viewfinder
+
Great low light Autofocus
Reasons to avoid
–
Stills resolution not the highest
–
Limited lens range
–
Superseded by Z6 II
Though superseded a while back by the superior Nikon Z6 II, the Z6 (one-half of the first two mirrorless cameras Nikon ever produced), is still one heck of a camera and excels in low light. For our money, we think the Z6 is better for astrophotographers than its big brother, the Z7, due to the lower resolution. A lower resolution on the same full-frame image sensor means less image noise detracting from the final shot. Whats more, the Z6 is also much cheaper than the Z7.
The Electronic Viewfinder has excellent detail, with a million more dots than the aforementioned Sony A7 III, and gives a realistic, clear image. Though the Z-mount lens range is expanding, but it’s still not as established as other models in this guide. Saying this, with an FTZ adapter, you can use any of Nikon’s F-mount lenses from the past several decades, so this isn’t a problem.
Our Nikon Z6 review found that shooting even up as high as ISO 12,800 adds very little noise or softness to the image, making it perfect for low-light situations like astro and night-time photography. This is especially true if you’re trying to pick out unlit objects or scenery to give the night sky some context. The image quality only degrades a little on the maximum and expanded settings.
A pleasure to compose your shot even in the darkest skies as well as a nifty timelapse function
Specifications
Type: DSLR
Sensor: 26.2MP, Full-frame 35mm
Lens mount: EF-mount
ISO range: 100-40000 (102400 expandable)
Viewfinder size/resolution: Optical, 0.71x mag
Video capability: 1920 x 1080, 60fps
Weight: 765g
Size: 144.0 x 110.5 x 74.8 mm
Memory card type: SD, SDHC or SDXC (UHS-I) card
Reasons to buy
+
4K timelapse feature
+
Handy vari-angle touchscreen display
+
A lot of camera for the money
Reasons to avoid
–
No 4K video recording
–
Only one SD memory card slot
–
Low dynamic range a shame
The Canon EOS 6D Mk 2 is an affordable DSLR for those wanting to dip their toes into astrophotography without breaking the bank. It does lack some modern features, but this is a brilliant full-frame option for its price point.
Its handy vari-angle touchscreen display makes it simple to compose the scene even if the camera is pointing skyward. For astro-shooters that like a moving image, the EOS 6D Mk 2 can shoot 4K time-lapses (in timelapse mode), making it perfect for detailed videos of the night sky, especially when paired with a slider or a star tracker. We found in our Canon EOS 6D Mk 2 review that it’s best to avoid this model if you’re planning on shooting fast action in low light, but that’s not a problem for astrophotography.
While it only captures regular video footage at full-HD 1080p, it records this at 60FPS for smooth results. Its dynamic range also leaves something to be desired, but if combined with plenty of calibration frames, this shouldn’t make much difference after image processing.
A single SD card slot might have nervous shooters biting their nails during longer sessions, but with 102400 expandable ISO and 26.2MP stills capture, you can relax knowing results will be clear and crisp every time.
A dedicated color astro camera producing stunning high resolution stills with an enormous frame rate
Specifications
Type: Color CMOS astronomy camera
Sensor: 20.1MP, 1-inch
Lens mount: Scope mounted
ISO range: N/A
Video capability: 5496 x 3672, 19 FPS
Weight: 140g
Size: 62mm diameter
Memory card type: N/A
Reasons to buy
+
Electronic shutter minimises camera movement
+
19FPS perfect for solar/lunar photography
+
USB 3.0 output
Reasons to avoid
–
Scope mounted only
–
Requires dedicated software to run
–
Images at 12 bit depth maximum
This is a compact full-color camera with its own onboard cooling system to minimize noise whilst shooting long exposures. It is one of the best-dedicated astrophotography cameras out there, the ZWO Optical ASI183MC Pro is the color version of the ZWO Optical ASI183.
In our ZWO Optical ASI183MC Pro review, we found it to represent a great choice for astrophotographers looking for a dedicated astro-imaging camera. You won’t need to bring a stack of RGB filters when heading out to shoot. It’s also much smaller and lighter than other astro cams. Still, at 1.6e read noise, it’s a serious camera.
It’s one of the more efficient camera models for astrophotography and provides a whopping 84% Quantum Efficiency peak. For an astro camera, it also has a high pixel count, at approximately 20.48MP.
It shoots an all-out frame rate of 19FPS at full resolution, which makes the ZWO Optical ASI183MC ideal for solar or lunar imaging. However, if users drop the resolution down, there’s the potential to shoot hundreds of frames a second if wanted!One downside, as with all dedicated astro cams, is that you’ll need to plug it into a computer with dedicated software to run it. A fast USB3.0 port means a healthy data transfer for the higher frame rate captures.
This camera’s design and build is very specifically geared towards clean astro shooting, as complemented by its zero amp glow
Specifications
Type: Color CMOS astronomy camera
Sensor: 9MP, 1-inch
Lens mount: Scope mounted
ISO range: N/A
Viewfinder size/resolution: N/A
Video capability: 3008 x 3008, 20FPS
Weight: 800g
Size: 78mm
Memory card type: N/A
Reasons to buy
+
Zero amp glow
+
80% quantum efficiency
+
High 20FPS frame rate
Reasons to avoid
–
No mono version
–
Square CMOS sensor unusual for some
The ZWO Optical ASI 533 Pro’s most attractive feature is likely that it has zero amp glow. Although you can remove this in editing software, this additional processing time can stack up and reduce productivity, especially when considering that you could opt for an astro camera like this and avoid it altogether. By removing the need for extra processing, you’re also keeping a cleaner, more efficient resulting image.
This camera only comes in a color version, so monochromatic enthusiasts should leave their RGB filters at home. It has a good 80% Quantum Efficiency and a quick 20FPS frame rate for those needing to shoot fast. As with almost all dedicated astro cameras, the ZWO Optical ASI 533 Pro needs an external power supply to work. A 9MP square sensor might seem a little unusual to some photographers, but it has 1.0e read noise and a 14-bit ADC for good dynamic range.
In our ZWO Optical ASI 533 Pro review, we concluded that it is a great choice for those looking for a simple-to-use, dedicated astro-imaging camera at an affordable price.
While it’s an older model, it’s still a solid and reasonably priced choice for astrophotographers
Specifications
Type: Full-fram mirrorless
Sensor: 30 megapixels
Lens mount: RF (EF and EF-S with adapter)
ISO range: 100-40000
Viewfinder size/resolution: 0.5-inch OLED EVF
Video capability: 4K and 10-bit
Weight: 580g
Size: 135.8 x 98.3 x 84.4mm
Memory card type:
Reasons to buy
+
30MP sensor
+
Good value for money
+
Excellent autofocus
Reasons to avoid
–
Button layout could be better
–
Not as rugged as it’s rivals
Though four years old, Canon’s first-ever full-frame mirrorless RF system camera still holds its own against the more recent releases.
As we discussed in our Canon EOS R review, it’s neither the sleekest nor best-built body, so you’d have to be a little gentler with it than you would some of the hardier models — like the Nikon Z6 — and the layout of the buttons could be more intuitive. None of these would be reasons not to buy this model, but they could take some getting used to.
Body and build quality aside, the performance of the Canon EOS R is above average when shooting in low light. It performs especially when using long exposures, which is perfect for traditional astro shooting, including long exposures and time-lapse shooting (don’t forget your tripod). It also processes the shots very quickly with little noticeable buffer lag.
The screen is large and clear, with impressive touch functionality. Like a smartphone, you can drag and set the focus with your finger. The vari-angle touch screen also makes taking low-angle shots much more comfortable.
How we test the best cameras for astrophotography
To guarantee you’re getting honest, up-to-date recommendations on the best cameras to buy here at Space.com we make sure to put every camera through a rigorous review to fully test each product. Each camera is reviewed based on many aspects, from its construction and design, to how well it functions as an optical instrument and its performance in the field.
Each camera is carefully tested by either our expert staff or knowledgeable freelance contributors who know their subject areas in depth. This ensures fair reviewing is backed by personal, hands-on experience with each camera and is judged based on its price point, class and destined use. For example, comparing a 60MP full-frame mirrorless camera to a sleek little crop-sensor DSLR wouldn’t be appropriate, though each camera might be the best performing product in its own class.
We look at how easy each camera is to operate, whether it contains the latest up-to-date imaging technology, whether the cameras can shoot high-quality stills photos and high-resolution video and also make suggestions if a particular camera would benefit from any additional kit to give you the best viewing experience possible.
With complete editorial independence, Space.com are here to ensure you get the best buying advice on cameras, whether you should purchase an instrument or not, making our buying guides and reviews reliable and transparent.
Best cameras for astrophotography: What to look for
It can be difficult to know what to look for in the best cameras for astrophotography, but there are some crucial factors to consider to help you decide. Budget is significant, with new users who want to dabble perhaps setting aside a little less than more seasoned photographers that will only settle for the very best images. However, image clarity is critical, and you’ll find that larger sensors with fewer pixels can capture astro shots with minimal image noise. By negating the effects of image noise, we’re able to process imagery more efficiently with better-detailed results.
While not particularly useful for astrophotography, autofocus may still be helpful for those who want to combine night-time shooting with near-twilight landscapes that show the brightest stars, planets, and satellites hanging above a beautiful foreground. A low EV rating on the autofocus ability is crucial for sharp shots in the dark.
Fiddling around with one of the best headlamps can be helpful, but for those with inferior headlamps a dim-lit red light to set up your shot can be frustrating, so consider whether you need backlit illuminated buttons to help guide camera setup in the dark.
Specialist astrophotography cameras have a predisposition to warm up during long exposure shots. Suppose you’re interested in getting an astro camera that has built-in cooling to keep the performance of the image capture high, it will likely be larger and heavier, and a little noisier as the fans whir while operating.
Photographers must consider lens choice when choosing a camera for astrophotography. While most major manufacturers have excellent ranges of top-quality glass, not all camera models can accept the full range of lenses due to differences in mount types. Ideally, fast lenses with wide apertures and excellent optical sharpness and clarity are what to look for when shooting astrophotography. Pair this with a camera body that handles high ISO and image noise well and you should be ready to go.
We’re getting a great gift in our skies this holiday season with three bright planets — Saturn, Jupiter and Mars — decorating our evening skies. We also have some nice celestial conjunctions, or what I call celestial huggings, between the moon and planets.
Every month there are at least one or two conjunctions. These frequent conjunctions happen because of the ecliptic, the superhighway of the planets in our skies. Planets are wanderers, moving among the stars from night to night and year to year. In fact, the word planet has a Greek origin that roughly evolved from what they called “wandering stars.” Back then, no one really knew the nature of the planets except that they appeared to roam among the fixed stars in the celestial dome. Early civilizations observed that the moon and the wanderers, or planets, didn’t move randomly among the fixed stars. Instead, they followed about the same path, mainly migrating to the east and at times moving backward, or retrograde, in a westward direction. This path is called the ecliptic because it’s along the same line where eclipses of the sun and moon occur.
All of the planets take pretty much the same ecliptic path among the stars because they, along with our Earth, all orbit the sun in nearly the same geometric plane. They also move along the ecliptic at different speeds. The planets close to the sun, Venus and Mercury, are in the fast lane. Their paths around the sun are shorter and travel faster because the sun has a stronger gravitational pull on them. So they zip around the sun compared to outer planets like Uranus and Neptune, which take their sweet time completing their longer ecliptic circuit. Consider the ecliptic the long and winding road in the stars. Also, along and on either side of the ecliptic are thirteen constellations referred to as zodiac constellations. On any given night or day, a planet or our moon will be in one of these constellations as they travel down the ecliptic highway.
The planets aren’t the only wanderers in the night sky. Human-made satellites rip across the sky in just about all directions. Hundreds of them have been launched into space in the last 70 years. Many of them are still functioning, fulfilling their various missions and tasks, but there’s also a lot of junk up there like dead satellites and spent rocket stages. At my star-watching programs, I’ll inevitably have someone call out, “Hey, look at the satellite up there.”
The best times to spot satellites are early morning and early evening. While the sun has gone down from our point of view on Earth, it’s still shining high up in space where the satellites are. The light we see when we observe satellites is sunlight bouncing off their reflective surfaces.
Some satellites are brighter than others. The absolute king of the satellites is the International Space Station. At first glance it resembles a high-flying jet airliner. There are also the new Elon Musk Starlink communication satellites. Hundreds are already in use, and hundreds more are planned. The only problem is that with so many satellites, astronomical observations from Earth could get messy. I know it affects my astrophotography. Hopefully, solutions can be worked out so this won’t become a huge problem.
There are a lot of good websites and apps for helping you spot and identify satellites. Not only can these help you with satellites, but many apps and websites can also help locate comets, asteroids and more so you can enjoy all the wanderers, natural and human-made!
Celestial Happening this week: The winter solstice is during the afternoon of Wednesday, Dec. 21, and it’s the astronomical first day of winter and the shortest day of the year. From here on, days get longer, and the sun climbs higher and higher in the heavens.
Mike Lynch is an amateur astronomer and professional broadcast meteorologist for WCCO Radio in Minneapolis/St. Paul and is author of the book, “Stars, a Month by Month Tour of the Constellations” published by Adventure Publications. Send questions to